Folkwear #151 Japanese Hakama & Kataginu
Hakama for men and women, all sizes based on waist measurement.
Kataginu in one size.
During the Edo period in Japan (1615-1868), members of the samurai or warrior class wore the Kamishimo, a traditional costume made up of the Kataginu or pleated-front vest and Hakama or pleated pants/skirt. The two garments were typically worn over a knee-length kimono for formal occasions. Today, the garments are frequently worn for official occasions, martial arts, and historic reenactment.
Since the Hakama is simply a large rectangle of fabric that is pleated to fit your body, the pattern does not have a large rectangle pattern piece (waste of paper!). Instead, there are complete instructions for measuring, cutting, and pleating the traditional Hakama skirt/pant in any size. The pattern does include actual pattern pieces for Small, Medium-Large, and Sumo-Size Koshiita (Backboard) and Koshiita Triangles. For contemporary sportswear, pattern also includes instructions for optional side panels to fill in the side-seam gaps that expose the underlying kimono in traditional wear.
The wide-shoulder Kataginu can be made to match the Hakama for a traditional samurai appearance or as a contrasting wearable art accent. Easy to pleat and sew, it completes a dramatic outfit.
For Kataginu: Crisp, tightly woven cottons; linens and linen blends; ramie; hemp; silks, including shantung, habotai, pongee, satin, or taffeta. Note: You may have to starch fabric to preserve pleats. For Hakama: Same as Kataginu, but also lightweight wool suiting.