Sewing Help: Interfacing

How to Apply Fusible Hymo (or any fusible) Interfacing:

Q: I'm ready to use the Fusible Hymo [interfacing] T15N. However, there were no instructions for fusing it to fabric. I've never used hymo before. Please send fusing info. Thanks!

A: Even though Fusible Hymo comes with no fusing instructions, it works just like any other fusible interfacing product. The instructions for using Fusible Hymo are similar to the same as fusing any other name brand fusible interfacing product: One side of the Hymo will be rough or shiny - this is most likely the "glue" side of the Hymo. As with all fusibles, the glue side of the Hymo will be adhered to the wrong side of your fabric using the heat of an iron.

As always, I recommend that you try working with a small test piece of your interfacing on a scrap of fabric first before jumping into your project. Always use a pressing cloth to cover your project as you iron, so that any glue that might seep out of the Hymo will stick to your pressing cloth, not your iron.

Try ironing the Hymo onto your scrap, glue side to wrong side of fabric, using a pressing cloth over your work. If the Hymo sticks to the press cloth, you'll know that you've guessed wrong about the glue side and you can try again, making note of which side is covered with glue.

Because Hymo is a medium to heavy weight interfacing product, you may need to try a higher temperature on your iron. Every iron is different and your heat setting will be different depending on the fiber and type of fabric that you are adhering the Hymo to. Never exceed the outer fabric's ironing temperature! To do so can result in scorching or melting!

This should be a very easy interfacing for you to use - just go slow, do a few tests, and you'll be on your way to using Hymo in your project in no time!

Have you ever wondered how to make your handbags and totes sturdy and stand up on their own? Nicole, who teaches some of our amazing handbag classes, tells you how:

Iron on the fusible to the wrong side of your fabric before your cut it out. It will bond with your fabric and make it noticeably stiffer. If you want your fabric to be more rigid, you can fuse on a second layer.

Then cut your fabric out and sew your bag together as usual. My favorite fusibles for this purpose are Pellon Craft Fuse and Decor Bond. Both give maximum firmness to your fabric.

Another option is to bond your fabric to a rigid fabric such as duck or canvas using Fusible Web.

What should I know about interfacing when sewing silk?
The kind of interfacing you should use depends on the weight of the silk.

In general, for using fusible interfacings with silk, superfine Japanese interfacing does the trick nicely. It adds body without adding weight. We carry it at our store - please call 866-4SEW-FUN to inquire about our current stock, as our selection varies.

For underlining silk, organza is a good choice.

When using sew-in interfacing, the layers can slip easily. Try using a temporary aerosol adhesive like quilter's basting spray.

I see knit and woven interfacings in your store. How are they used?
Woven interfacings are available in a variety of weights and finishes. The way it is cut will determine how it behaves in the garment.

Cut woven interfacings on the straight of grain for firm control and shape.

Cut on the bias for more drape and subtle, soft shaping. Bias cutting requires about 1/2 yard more than the pattern suggests.

Cut knit and weft insertions lengthwise for stability, preventing stretch and distortion.

When used as an underlining, fuse knit interfacings to the fabric before cutting out the garment sections. Be careful to match grainlines.

Cut weft-insertions crosswise for supple shaping or flexibility, a perfect method for heavier fabrics.

Non-wovens that are stable have little or no give in any directions so it is not necessary to follow grainline during layout.

Stretch non-wovens generally have stability in the lengthwise and offer stretch in the crosswise. Examine your silhouette and fabric to determine the direction of greater stretch needed.

Bias non-wovens have some stretch in all directions so grainline is not key. This is especially good in cuff and collar areas

Do not be afraid to use bias-cut or crosswise interfacing under straight grain sections of your garment. The layers will work beautifully.